Costa Brava - May 2022 - Travelogue and Retrospective

First dreamed up more than 15 years ago, scheduled for May 2020 (delayed), and then again for September 2021 (delayed again - #thankscovid), the first overseas Parallel trip is now officially in the books. Starting last Thursday, May 5, we ran our long-planned Spain's Costa Brava trip with eight fantastic "guinea pigs," or the Original Group (the "OGs"). As I have been trying to think of the theme behind this blog post, I just keep coming back to an overwhelming sense of gratitude - I am so grateful that after years of planning and setbacks we were finally able to see this through, grateful for the sense of fun, engagement, and curiosity that the OGs brought to the trip, and grateful for the phenomenal natural beauty, gastronomy, culture, and warmth (both physical and emotional) of Catalonia and its people. 

Quite simply, we had so much fun. With folks making their way to Barcelona from New England, Oregon, and Kuala Lumpur, we convened in the small town of Llançà on the northern side of the Cap de Creus, just a few kilometers from the French border. Introductions were made, celebratory Cava was shared, and then we feasted (despite the jet-lag) late into the night (despite the jetlag) on local seafood and quaffed wines made grapes grown within sight of the town at the family-run Pacu Pacu restaurant on the waterfront. It was a pitch-perfect first night.

The OGs on our first night together in Llançà

The next morning, we stocked up on picnic supplies before the group hiked to El Port de la Selva, unanimously opting for the uphill climb to the St Pere de Rodes monastery high above the sea over the shorter, flatter hike along the coast. From the monastery, many of our group climbed another several hundred feet up to the ruins of the Castell de Sant Salvador de Verdera - an effort paid off with sweeping panoramic views of the entire Cape. The wind was blowing hard from the north, but the sun was shining, and we recounted the day's adventures over wine by the harbor in Port de la Selva. 

The view from the Castell de Sant Salvedor over the Cap de Creus

The next day, our intrepid OGs hiked 10 miles from the north side of the cape to Cadaques in the south, the singularly charming town of bougainvillea-lined lanes, harborside churches and bistros, and more than its fair share of artisanal gelato vendors. Some of our members visited the historic Lebanese restaurant frequented by Salvador Dali decades ago and others enjoyed a seafood paella at La Sirena, another small, family run restaurant tucked into one of Cadaques many almost impossibly-charming back alleys.

It was a short day of hiking up and over the ridge the next morning into the small cove that is home to the Cala Joncols hotel, its pristine beach, and tables scattered under silver-leaved olive trees, perfect for an evening digestif. With fewer miles to cover, our group enjoyed shopping the boutiques of Cadaques and lunch on the waterfront before an afternoon hike to Cala Joncols, arriving with plenty of time for aperitifs under the olive trees, stone skipping on the beach, and for a hearty couple of OGs, a full-on head-dunk in the still-chilly Mediterranean before we all ate together.

Relaxing post-hike in Cala Joncols - and looking darn good in Parallel swag!

Maybe it was the wine, maybe it was the sun, but it seemed hard to believe that when we woke up the next day, it was our last day of hiking and last full day together. Our hikers made the most of it, soaking in the incredible vistas over the Mediterranean and the wildflower-coated coast as they made their way to Roses. I met the group as they emerged from the trail onto one of the town's seemingly-perfect little beach coves and we shuttled into Girona. 

The end of the trail!

Since the first day, I had been hyping Girona as a city of quiet medieval lanes and incredibly well-preserved history. Most of that proved true - everything except the "quiet" part as we arrived into the city's annual Temps de Fleurs flower festival. The usually quiet streets in the historic center were thronged with thousands and thousands of visitors taking in the elaborate displays of flowers throughout the city.

Girona’s flower-draped cathedral (not shown - the throngs in town for the flower festival…)

Not to be stymied, we made the most of it, winding through the crowds for a glass of wine on the square before Sandra and her team at the Occi restaurant served up course after course (and bottle after bottle) of Catalan favorites for our last meal together. After a long, laughter-filled meal, it was time to make our way back to the hotel before early wake-ups the next morning. And, wouldn't you know it, but while we were enjoying anchovies on toast and chocolate coulant, the crowds thinned away entirely - and the ancient alley ways were silent but for our own footfalls and the church bells tolling gently on the quarter hour. It was a magical way to end the night - and, indeed, the first of many Parallel trips to the Costa Brava. 


Home now, the OGs are sharing pictures and memories, the tan is already starting to fade, but I, for one, am grateful for the incredible week we shared and already looking forward to doing it again in September.

Chad Olcott