Susan, the Parallel Muse, and I returned from our latest scouting trip last week – this one was to get ready for next fall’s Beta trip to …. Sardinia. We had, frankly, a magical week and were able to explore the island from south to north. Several of you may know that, many years ago, we were fortunate enough to live on Sardinia for about a year and a half when I was stationed there with the US Navy. During those heady, pre-kid days, we lived in the small town of Palau, in the far north of the island, where we looked across the Straits of Bonifacio at the high mountains of Corsica. We have been lucky enough to return many times over the years, but have usually stayed near Palau where we could visit with our old friends and neighbors.
As we put the itinerary together for next fall’s Parallel trip, however, we wanted to branch out to explore parts of the island we had not seen before. And what a treat it was. In the end, the Beta itinerary won’t take in all of the places we saw on this trip – largely due to ferry schedules, flight logistics, and ludicrously twisty roads. My hope, though, is that the folks who take in parts of the island with Parallel, will be as smitten as we have been and will go on to travel on their own. Here’s a rundown of how we made the most of our week – with a draft itinerary of next fall’s Beta trip following.
Landing in Rome early on an atypically-rainy Saturday morning, we were remarkably well-rested after finagling our way into sitting up front on our ITA flight from Boston (the flight deserves its own review – but the major pros: outstanding food! Aperol Spritz! Massaging chairs! Major cons: bathroom quite literally held together with duct tape – and not just any duct tape, but Alitalia-branded duct tape from back when Alitalia existed….!). We made our way through a packed FCO to the domestic flights area, joined a rugby team from Savona, and a uniformed choir for the short flight over to Cagliari on Sardinia’s southern coast.
We picked up our rental car and drove off through intermittent rain storms, chasing the sun we could see shining to the west, and pulled into the very quiet port of Portovesme for a much-needed sandwich and espresso (yes, Americans, the espresso was about 1.50 Euros and was as good as anything you’ve had over here for three or four times that…). We drove our cute little VW right onto the ferry and enjoyed 45 minutes of rocking and rolling across the stormy strait separating the Isola San Pietro from the main island. We pulled into the bustling port and found the charming oasis of the Dimora Ferralasco guesthouse. Some of us took a nap, and others went for a long walk. I won’t say who did what – but I was definitely more rested going into the late afternoon.
Rested, and, of course, post-Mediterranean dip, we walked back into town for an outstanding dinner at the Al Tonno di Corsa trattoria several blocks back from the waterfront. San Pietro is Sardinia’s tuna island – and many restaurants don’t serve anything but dishes including tuna. It’s importance to the island comes from the annual “mattanza” or “slaughter” of blue fin tuna as they make migrate down Sardinia’s west coast. For many generations, fishermen have headed out on small boats in May and June, strung incredibly elaborate nets, and herded thousands and thousands of blue fin tuna to their demise. It’s a fascinating, gory story told annually – and absolutely central to San Pietro. The tuna was fantastic. So was the full moon rising through the rain clouds that were still scattered about. Somehow, we made it to 10 PM or so before collapsing into bed before our first full day of exploration.
Octopus and, of course, tuna at Carloforte’s Al Tonno di Corso
We started Sunday with a visit to the local Museo Civico, run by the charming Donatella. We were the only ones there, and Donatella explained the mattanza to us, sharing anecdotes, artifacts, and some very cool dioramas as we explored the small museum. As Donatella was sharing some of her favorite spots around the island with us, she told us about a woman in her 80s who makes a point of swimming every month of the year. We left town and lit out for the rain-spattered tuna-processing plant (into which all of the mattanza-ed fish are hauled every spring). The skies cleared as we went into the heart of the island for a long walk from the heights down to the rocky northern coast.
Masochistically, we took on a second walk – this one without a trail or a map. We plunged deeper and deeper into the and by the time we finally emerged, we had the bleeding legs to prove it. Luckily, it was just about that time that we ran, entirely coincidentally, into Pina, the very woman Donatella at the museum had been telling us about. (It’s a long story about how we figured it all out – and it involves a baby wild pig – but we’ll save that for another time…)
Pina pointed us to her secret swimming hole – down a steep, but blessedly macchia-free, road. We were delighted to dip our scratched-up legs and toasted Pina later that night at Ristorante Andrea, where we enjoyed yet more tuna. Before that, though, we took in one of the more stunning sunsets I’ve ever seen from the coast near the lighthouse at Capo Sandalo. Having lived in Miami, San Diego, and Italy, I’ve seen some good ones – but this, amici, was a doozy!
Sunset at Capo Sandalo
The next morning, we were up and out as we had a ferry to catch and wanted to see a bit more of the island before our morning ferry back to Portovesme. We checked out the trails around the very cool “Collone” rock formations and then got in a quick dip at the idyllic Spiaggia La Bobba. It was late October, but the water was still divine, and we were hard-pressed to leave. But leave we did – and made the ferry in the nick of time.
Back on the main island, we drove way up into the hills – twisting and turning for many kilometers – to reach the Temple of Antas – a Roman temple built on the ruins of a Phoenician temple built on the ruins of a Nuraghic burial ground. A singularly beautiful spot nestled in the hills – the ancient Sardinians revered it as the home of “Sardus Pater,” the preeminent deity of the Bronze Age culture there. I tell you what, it still resonates with an impossible-to-quantify energy.
The mysterious Temple of Antas
We went on a long hike from the Temple through a deep oak forest and along an ancient Roman cart path to the Su Mannau cave complex to the north. We did not explore the caves, but returned circuitously, and occasionally, incorrectly, back to the Temple. We twisted and turned back down the hill to get into the old mining town of Buggerru on Sardinia’s west coast. The town has a melancholy quality to it, tucked as it is into a deep, shady ravine – and its history, filled as it is with the struggles of the local mineworkers against the French managers of the mine, is also sad – and worth more study. We had but one night in town, however, and after our long day, were happy to wander the streets briefly, enjoy an Aperol Spritz at an empty bar and dinner at one of the only two restaurants open in town.
The Parallel Muse puts together a spot-on Parallel picnic
The following morning, we followed old mining roads south from town – climbing steeply from the town at sea level up to the coastal plateau 100 meters or so above us. We made our way along fragrant paths accompanied by bright sunshine and lots of birdsong until we descended to the absolutely stunning Cala Domestica and its little sister cove, Cala Lunga. We had a fantastic picnic and a long swim before returning to Buggerru and punching another hour or so up the coast to the village of Putzu Idu.
Looking down towards Cala Domestica on our hike from Buggerru
We found out at our next, family-oriented accommodations that it was school break for French and German families – and we had a lot of young company at dinner that night. But they were all delightful – and so was the whole sea bream we enjoyed with a bottle of very good vermentino….
After exploring the very quiet streets of Putzu Idu the next morning, we divided in order to conquer. I dropped Susan at the north end of our one-way hike near Putzu Idu and then raced south to drop the car in San Giovanni di Sinis before hiking north to meet her mid-hike. Today’s hike was entirely coastal, longer, and relatively flat. It was a gloriously sunny day and we had another great swim and picnic at an entirely empty beach before reaching San Giovanni and the Tharros ruins there.
The coast near San Giovanni di Sinis
We didn’t linger, however, as we had to cross to the east side of the island, about two hours away. We popped into the 6th-century (!) church in town – the second oldest on Sardinia – hopped in the water one last time (one must!), fired up a podcast, and directed our little VW across the island.
The 6th-century church at St. Giovanni di Sinis Suckers for the ocean that we are, we went straight to Cala Cartoe, another singularly beautiful beach about 15-minutes from the we know, love, and would call home for the next two nights.
Sunset at Agriturismo Didone
We were up and out again after a delicious breakfast the next morning – this time heading inland to Monte Tiscali. We had hiked here many times in the past, but Giovanni’s brother had given us a new route to try – and we were amply rewarded with a challenging day on stunning trails we had entirely to ourselves, save for one young British trail-runner. Monte Tiscali is home to the Villagio Tiscali, a 2000-2500 year-old stone village carved into the caves. It’s a wonder to see it, and also to encounter a fellow taking tickets way up in the woods after you haven’t seen anyone in a couple of hours…
Checking out one of the traditional shepherd’s huts on the Monte Tiscali trails
Our time on the island was drawing short at this point, but with our last full day, we left our friends at Didone, drove over the mountain to Cala Gonone and hiked out and back to the famous Cala Luna on the Golfo de Orosei. We had the beach to ourselves on arrival and had to get in one last swim before returning reluctantly to the car and return to the west coast and the ancient Catalan city of Alghero for our last night.
Cala Luna from the water
It was about three hours from Cala Gonone over to Alghero, and we didn’t get in until late in the afternoon. Which is too bad, because our exceptionally-cool hotel, the Villa Las Tronas, had gorgeous grounds to explore and a decidedly-cushy spa to enjoy. We got in a little of both – enjoyed a last Aperol Spritz on the terrace in the twilight – and then strolled along the old walls into the historic center to the Trattoria Lo Romani for a spaghetti scoglio that was so rich and so full of delicious seafood that I had a hard time keeping tears from my eyes. Well, that and the fact that less than 12 hours later we would have left the island…
The storybook view from our room in Alghero
And, indeed, our 4:30 AM wake up call came very, very quickly. But before we knew it, we had bid our VW arrividerci, dropped the keys in the key-box, and boarded the flight to Rome. Through the wizardry that is modern travel, we were back home in Maine in time for dinner with our girls – having waken in Alghero, flown to Rome, flown to Boston, boarded a bus, picked up our car, and zipped up to Brunswick. Tired, for sure, but so grateful for the experience.
Since returning, we’ve put the pieces together for next fall’s Beta trip. It will look a bit different than our scouting trip, as we saw that we want to focus more on a couple of locations and keep driving to a minimum. So – Carloforte, its tuna, and the miners of Buggerru – as wonderful and worthwhile as they are – will have to wait for another trip. We will be focusing the trip in the north, spending two nights at the Agriturismo Didone on the east coast before moving west for two nights in Putzu Idu, and heading north for a night in the river town of Bosa before concluding the trip at the Villa Las Tronas in Alghero. I’ve put a draft itinerary below.
We are prioritizing spots for folks who have been on our trips before, but please write me at chad@parallel-adventures.com if you are interested in joining us next fall.
Summarized Draft Itinerary:
Sunday, Sep 28: Meet in Olbia on Sardinia’s east coast around noon. Most folks coming from the States would fly to Milan or Rome and then catch a second short (~45 minutes) flight to Olbia. Once assembled, we’ll drive to Dorgali, about an hour south, to the agriturismo we’ll be staying at for the next two nights. If anyone needs to get in the Med (and I would certainly understand if you did), we will do a run down to one of the many gorgeous beaches within 15 minutes or so before getting settled. Dinner and wine are provided at the agriturismo.
Monday, Sep 29: We’ll drive from the agriturismo towards the central mountains – a twisty half hour or so – and hike Monte Tiscali, with an option to visit the hidden village of Tiscali (literally a cave village used 1500-2000 years ago when folks were hiding from coastal raiders). The hike is gorgeous – with huge views down the valley, fragrant woods, and it’s also more challenging than most of our other hikes – depending on the route you choose (there will be a couple of options), you’ll probably get in about 2000′ of vertical with a couple of very steep ascents and descents over 7-8 miles. Return to the agriturismo in the afternoon to relax and enjoy another great dinner. Beach visits arranged as desired. For reference, Susan and I started our hike around 10:30 and we were back at the car around 3:00 with a lengthy picnic built in there.
Tuesday, Sep 30: We’ll pack up this morning and bid farewell to Giovanni and the family and head to the coast (another twisty half hour) to walk the rugged coastal path from Cala Fuili in the town of Cala Gonone to Cala Luna. I don’t care where you’ve been in your life, Cala Luna will be in the Top 3 Most Beautiful Beaches you’ve ever seen – guaranteed. It’s a three-ish hour out and back, and with time for a picnic and a swim, we’ll be back at the vans and headed across the island between 3 and 4 in the afternoon. It’s about a 2-hour transit from Cala Gonone over to the west coast and the village of Putzu Idu where we’ll be for the next two nights.
We will shift from the simple agriturismo into a nice hotel on the edge of the village. You will be on your own for dinner for the next two nights with several good options within walking distance (including at the hotel).
Wednesday, Oct 1: Today’s hike is a point-to-point hike down the coast to the Capo San Marco and its archaeological delights, including the Phoenician/Roman ruins at Tharros and the Chiesa di San Giovanni di Sinis (the second-oldest church on the island – built in the 600s…). It’s almost guaranteed to be a day in the sunshine as there is very little shade today, but the beaches are gorgeous and perfect for swimming (and quite different from Cala Luna yesterday).
Thursday, Oct 2: We’ll check out of the hotel this morning, but stay in the area around Putzu Idu until early afternoon – there is a fantastic hike around the Capo Mannu to enjoy the views and a field trip to the 16th-century Spanish tower you’ll encounter along the way. More idyllic swimming opportunities today, too.
In the afternoon, we’ll transit about an hour up the coast to the town of Bosa – another longtime favorite. Set on a river, Bosa is bustling and lovely. We’ll stay in a boutique-style hotel with easy access to the many good trattorias within walking distance.
Friday, Oct 3: We will work in one last hike this morning on the coastal cliffs before transiting another hour or so up to the small city of Alghero and its beautiful historic center. We are planning to stay at a placeI have a feeling you will really, really like. We’ll enjoy an Aperol Spritz on the terrace before walking into the old town to enjoy a final dinner together at a delicious little family-run trattoria.
Saturday, Oct 4: Our trip will end after breakfast at the hotel. We’ll be able to run folks the 15 minutes or so to the Alghero airport for flights out. You will likely want to stay in Rome or Milan, etc., tonight and fly all the way back to the States on Sunday, the 5th, at the earliest. Even better if you stay in Italia for another week – or a lifetime!
Hiking: I alluded to this above, but the hiking (particularly on Days 1 and 2) is more challenging than most of our other hiking. If the hiking on the Portugal trip is a 6 out of 10 or so, I would put these two days at an 8. The distances aren’t bad, but the terrain can be very rugged and the steeps are just that – very steep.
Just another Sardinian sunset, if slightly crooked…
